Beerits did not dispute what Steinbeck had written about the otherworldly feeling of Deer Isle. You cant miss it because it encompasses the whole property and it is a unique experience. There are never-ending nooks and crannies to explore on this off-the-beaten-path Maine island. Youve not heard quiet until youve been here in the middle of winter. Then the UPS truck passed by, prompting Cook to scrunch up his face in a mock grimace and vigorously wag his middle finger at the driver. The ring of easy laughter filled the air. 68 Main Street PO Box 200 Since I was visiting in the springtime before the main inn building opened for the season, I stayed in one of the cottages, which was cozy and comfortable. In the off-season it can be rented for shorter periods. One of these is Barred Island Preserve, which was on my Maine bucket list for awhile, but I didnt think Id get to make it happen due to weather on this trip. 15 Main St Deer Isle, Town of ME 04627. These range from luxury places to shared space rooms for rent. I cant tell you how refreshing it is to find good coffee in a small town. Surely I never met such ardent individuals, Steinbeck writes of the inhabitants of Deer Isle. Pilgrims Inn: 20 Main St, Deer Isle, ME // Get more information here. Beerits, now in his 70s, has been steadily adding to it over the past four decades. All deserving of a feature on your Instagram. Deer Isle is full of great outdoor activities and natural wonder preserved through the Main Island Heritage Trust. Still, the island way of life seems to have persisted over the past century, evidenced in a hard working culture, dependence on natural resources, and a pace of life that changes with the seasons. 48 Hours inDeer Isle - The Maine Mag All that being the case, there is a section of Acadia that you can get to from Deer Isle. I wanted to see what, if any, part of Deer Isle remained from Steinbecks journey, though I knew I wouldnt be the first writer to choose Travels With Charley as a departure point for exploration (nor even the first for The Washington Post; Rachel Dry did so in 2011, focusing on his stop in Fargo, N.D.). Access to the island is limited. You can visit woods, overlooks and small islands, including the popular Barred Island Preserve. Nellievilles genius, like the best kinds of live performance, resides in the alchemical reaction that takes place when it interacts with its intended audience, and theres no museum that could contain its feral spirit. The Acadia National Park half of the island covers 2,700 acres and has 18 miles of beautiful hiking trails. Apart from a store in town, a seasonal lobster roll stand, and primitive campsites in the park, there arent many tourist amenities on Isle au Haut. Gilchrist was there to greet us. There are also other reasons to visit during the peak of the warm season. The two major airports in Maine are in Bar Harbor and in Portland. The drive between Deer Isle and Acadia is over an hour although its only about 15 miles as the crow flies. We are committed to the vitality of downtown Stonington and enriching the lives of all who pass through, no matter the season. Stop into the Saturday market at Four Season Farm. There are a few turns along the way, but continue following signs for Route 15 and youll end up on Deer Isle. Some locals I spoke with said the parking in downtown Stonington can be challenging at this time of year, while others said they never feel like things are truly crowded like they are elsewhere on the coast. Though she had not been here to meet Steinbeck, she not only knew about his visit but had written about it herself in her 2012 memoir, Waltzing With Bracey. She had a copy of the book ready to show me, and she humbly opened it to the page where she writes about the guest cottage where Elizabeth Otis had stayed, the porch where Brace and Steinbeck had sat and talked, and the driveway where hed parked and slept in the camper hed named Rocinante (for Don Quixotes horse). Wander around historic Castine, one of the oldest towns in New England. The school is perched on a steep hillside above the water. Impulsively, I tacked it up on my wall, right beside my writing desk. While I was compensated for my time, I only work with brands and destinations Im passionate about, and I work hard to ensure I bring you the best information and share genuine reflections of my travel experiences. I would not be happy if I had to make sculptures out of stuff I purchased at Home Depot., When I expressed disbelief that he could be making such vital work in virtual obscurity and offered that it should be given a platform for much wider exposure, Beerits gently smiled. When I mentioned that Id been inspired by the fact that Steinbeck had begun his Charley journey here, Cooks response was one of disbelief. There are 4 ways to get from Deer Isle to Maine by car or bus Select an option below to see step-by-step directions and to compare ticket prices and travel times in Rome2Rio's travel planner. Four Acre Woods Campground | Deer Isle ME - Facebook More lobster in terms of pounds is landed in Stonington than at any other Maine port. I had no idea where this poster had come from or how long it had been there, but I had the feeling Id stumbled upon a talisman. There are no instructions for how to engage with Nellieville, other than some basic guidelines about behavior while on the grounds no audio guides, no map, no starting point or finale. The relaxed atmosphere was apparent as soon arrived on the island. They are known as wild blueberries, grow indigenously, and are much smaller than other blueberries. Isle au Haut Boat Services offers daily trips to the Acadia National Park landing at Duck Harbor on Isle au Haut, where there are trails perfect for day trips. There are 8 ways to get from Portland to Deer Isle by plane, car, bus or train Select an option below to see step-by-step directions and to compare ticket prices and travel times in Rome2Rio's travel planner. Cook knows everything about everyone and introduced me to a steady stream of regulars lined up for the shops coffee (roasted right here) and local pastries. 15 South to the Deer Isle-Sedgwick Bridge. Opera House Arts is one thing that is open year round. Some events are free of charge, others have a set fee and some are based on suggested donation. There are 3 ways to get from Portland to Deer Isle by bus or car Select an option below to see step-by-step directions and to compare ticket prices and travel times in Rome2Rio's travel planner. Airbnb is a great choice and there are several options to choose from on Deer Isle, Maine. You can pick up a paper map at the visitor center. Mosses, ferns and lichens are common. Peters Pond Preserve, Waldoboro. If youre looking for a really quiet getaway, this is something to keep in mind. Now a public preserve and important Maine historical site, we encourage all to learn the story of Malaga and those who called the island home. Play Shop Stay Services Welcome & Information Center Stop by and visit the Deer Isle - Stonington Welcome & Information Center located on Little Deer Isle about 1/4 mile after crossing the bridge. Witness the rare phenomenon of reversing falls at Blue Hill Reversing Falls. Or are you wanting to connect with others on your trip? Route: Bass Harbor to Frenchboro; ferry carries vehicles. Keep reading for an introduction to this beautiful island in Downeast Maine, along with some suggestions for what to do while visiting. Surrounding the shop in every direction, and covering many acres that stretched into a large wooded area, was an alternate reality, unlike anything Ive ever seen. First things first: Deer Isle is the name of both the island and one of the towns on the island, which can be a little confusing. Being the area that its harvested from, lobster tends to be cheaper in here than in other areas of the US. Owners Eliot Coleman and Barbara Damrosch are well-known organic farmers and writers. It was rebuilt in 1912 and over the years served as a home for theater performances, basketball games, film showings, rollerskating, and the town hall. Unless you have your own boat, visiting the Isle au Haut unit of Acadia National Park requires taking a public ferry from Stonington, Maine, a small town west of Mount Desert Island. You could say that, yeah! Pleasant Point Park, Buxton. I always recommend visiting the visitor center when youre in a new location and this is no exception. , Stonington, Businesses and locations related to: Stonington. In fact, Maine is the only place on the East Coast of the United States where you can witness the rapids reverse as the tide changessometimes waves, whirlpools, and waterfalls form as well. Kids seem to appreciate the place because they like stuff thats scary and they know theyre safe, he told me. Here, at last, was Steinbecks glorious strangeness, a place that must disappear when you are not there. Theres an edge here, Beerits said, his impenetrable gaze not unlike the way Steinbeck had described the residents of Deer Isle as having aught behind their eyes., As we spoke, the spruce and oaks surrounding us soughed in the breeze. (But I struggle to keep things alive in the summer, so I might not be the best person to ask about whats possible.). Blueberrys will be in season as well. Address: It offers the perfect conditions to take a kayak or canoe for a spin, even if youre novice. Maine State Ferry Service Bass Harbor, ME, 04653 Phone: 207-244-3254 Toll-Free: 800-491-4883. Reservations can be made starting April 1st, and they book up very quickly. The many small islands protect the waters and they are much calmer than what youd typically see visiting the coastline. Isle au Haut (Acadia National Park): Details on planning a visit. There are never-ending nooks and crannies to explore on Deer Isle, including many nature preserves managed by Island Heritage Trust. Malaga Island was once home to a mixed-race fishing community forcibly removed by the state in 1912. Isolation is something we enjoy, Ostrow told me, extolling the islands virtues. Ostrow, 76, is co-president of the Island Country Club. Sandy Cove Trail, Trescott Township. As you drive around Deer Isle, its not long before the lobster traps adorning front yards and buoys hanging from garages remind you that the sea remains a vital resource and industry here. More specifically, the Humpty Dumpty brand. Visit a Nature Reserve in Deer Isle, Main, Be Entertained at Stonington Opera House Arts, 4 Things to Eat and Drink on Deer Isle, Maine, Taste the Local Deer Isle, Maine Blueberries, The Best Unknown Vacation Spots in the United States | Poppin' Smoke, The Best Unknown Vacation Spots in the United States MaryJaneSmokedU, Bucket List Places to Visit and Things to do in New England, Summer in New England: 15+ Awesome Weekend Trips From Boston, The 10 BEST Provincetown Airbnb Rentals to Book NOW, 16 Best Strasbourg Airbnb Homes to Book Today, 16 Perfect Sitges Airbnb Rentals to Book This Year. The Center is staffed by volunteers from mid-May until mid-October from 10:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. daily. If youre anything like me, you might be wondering: What exactly do marlinespike and chandlery mean? Beerits does sell the odd sculpture to people who like them, but I quickly realized the insensitivity of my suggestion. A vehicle is a must have to get around the state and this is especially true on the island. Let us know! It is now regionally specific to the Northeast area of the country or so google says when I checked. All of this seemed relevant today. Why cant you hire someone from here? theyd wanted to know. To add a little more to the mix, there is a smaller island called Little Deer Isle, which you drive through to get to the larger island. , Stonington, Nautical antiques, jewelry, and decor plus traditional marlinespike rope work by Tim Whitten, Address: John Steinbeck came here? When I quoted what Steinbeck had written in the book about the strangeness of Deer Isle, Cook didnt miss a beat. Gambo Preserve and Shaw Park, Gorham. Deer Isle is about an hour and 15 minutes south of Bar Harbor (potential day trip) and right around 3 hours north of Portland. Cook, 60, moved to Deer Isle just recently. Address: Its a ghostly, sprawling series of structures, sculptures and scenes. The coastal towns of Stonington and Deer Isle, linked by bridges to the mainland, are bastions of lobster and stone. I was immediately taken with everything about the island. I discovered that it is flavored with Gentian Root Extract. Yes please. To top it off there is also an island named Little Deer Isle that you must drive through to get to Deer Isle. Ferry operates Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday, year-round. Nellieville, as its called, is the brainchild of artist Peter Beerits. Here are four foods to try when visiting Deer Isle based on suggestions from the locals. Some businesses are only open during the height of summer, and some (like the Isle au Haut mail boat) have a limited schedule outside of peak months. Angella Jensen is founder of Angies Awesome Adventures travel blog. Not only is it a more pleasant experience for visitors when things are less crowded, it also helps spread the tourism dollars out for local businesses. There is a small pull-out spot by the road on one side of the bridge, which you can see on the map at the bottom of this post. Its the kind of place where someone might actually offer to show you around or take you out on their lobster boat. Her burning desire is to inspire others to bring the world together through travel and experience. And Im at peace with it. Warm weather, lobster and blueberries in one visit? Recommended option Bus, drive Take the bus from Portland, ME to Rockland, ME Drive from Rockland, ME to Deer Isle 4h 12m $36 - $51 Cheapest option Bus First things first: Deer Isle is the name of both the island and one of the towns on the island, which can be a little confusing. If youve ever had your hometown crowded for an event when youre just trying to get to work on time, you understand that having your normal routine disrupted can be frustrating. Jutting proudly into the Atlantic, Deer Isle is one of the largest of the 3,000 islands dotted along Maine's rocky coast. The Worlds Oldest Winged Insect Is in Trouble. Im intentionally not giving you a Deer Isle travel itinerary. If youre looking for a unique stay with a rich history in a prime location this may be the place to stay. You can find Moxie at almost any convenience store or grocery store that you go in to, so its easy to get. , Stonington. Spruce Island. Theyre proud of having built this business into something that provides several year-round jobs in this small town. Marlinespike Chandlery: 58 W Main St, Stonington, ME // Find out more here. This interactive education center in Stonington packs several interactive exhibits into its small space. Select an Island Ferry Services by Region Select a region from the tabs below to view ferry service options in that region. Pilgrims Inn has been operating since 1977, but the buildings history dates back to 1793 when it was built by a man from Massachusetts whose family owned a saw and gristmill in Deer Isle. For about three hours before and after low tide, you can walk across the sand bar and explore the peninsula-island, but at mid to high tide, it gets covered and Barred Island truly becomes an island. Parking tip: Ask around to make sure you are not parking in a locals rented spot. For ideas of what to do when you're here, visit the website of the Deer Isle - Stonington Chamber of Commerce at deerisle.com. Wait a minute, one of the women offered. But despite its relative lack of renown, its well-worth a detour away from the mainland. Acadia National Park | ISLE AU HAUT FERRY SERVICE The visitor center will help you get acquainted with the area, let you know what to expect and visitor best practices. A place where the Old West meets the Mississippi Delta meets Maine island life? These chips are a combination of several different flavors. The densely packed red spruce the dominate tree in the Woods - combs the coastal sky and seem to keep the swirling ocean fog in place. You just cant. There are so many things to do in Deer Isle, Maine you wont be bored. Its water is not what youd typically expect or imagine the coastline to look like. From a lighthouse to a historic walking tour to a classic Maine waterfront, this coastal village has a lot going on. The meal I had there, which included foraged mushrooms, seared sea scallop with seaweed, and creamy polenta with peas and flowers all locally sourced was one of the most beautiful Ive experienced in recent memory, the food seeming like it had sprung directly from the sea, the sun, the air and the land of Deer Isle. Theres a view of the harbor across the road and a little pond in the back, along with nice landscaping and places to sit outside. He began making his jams and jellies simply as a way to support his artistic practice, which involved repurposing found objects for the sculptures and buildings that became Nellieville. Note: Some of the links in this post may be affiliate links. If youre looking for a restaurant that serves it up right, check out the Harbor Cafe to place your order. This classic New England general store has had a face lift in recent years, but it still has the same small town charm. ), Steinbeck described Stonington as having the best lobsters in the world; today, Hugh Reynolds, 50, runs one of the busiest lobster concerns on the wharf. Whites home. [2] Notable landmarks in Deer Isle are the Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, Stonington Opera House, and the town's many art galleries. Warm temperatures are just one reason to visit during this time of year. (If you dont pick one up, make sure you at least download your Google Map for offline use.). Deer Isle Bucket List - 11 Must do activities on Deer Isle in Maine (I used both in conjunction.). The 34-year old is a former co-owner of the foodie destination Olmsted in Brooklyn, N.Y., but Deer Isle had been a favorite place to visit, and when hed gotten wind that this local greasy spoon (as he called it) was coming on the market just as the pandemic hit, he and his then-pregnant wife, Chloe, seized on the opportunity to get out of Dodge. As you are out an about enjoying the nature preserves on the island its important to visit responsibly. Head to this beautiful Maine island instead! She's guided by curiosity and a belief that every place has a story to tellwhether its through the intricate details of nature, history that has shaped a culture, or the people who call a place home. You have to. 207-244-3254 Schedule. There is only one parking area for the trail with 8 parking spots. Claim this business. These are not for the health-conscious consumer but they are delicious none-the-less. Whether you arrive at the town landing or at Duck Harbor, youll find a bathroom close by. When you go to the Opera House in the winter, Sam Ostrow had told me, it isnt really to see movies. (But that's kind of the point.) Deer Isle Hostel is a great option. Other hikes are available on lands owned or overseen by the Island Heritage Trust. This farm has become a nationally-recognized model of sustainable four season agriculture. On my day trip to Isle au Haut, I had sufficient time to do the Western Head and Cliff Trails, which boast incredible ocean vistas, stopping for a picnic lunch and plenty of photos. Downeast Acadia Regional Tourism:Get more ideas for traveling in Downeast Maine here. Earlier this year, he reopened another beloved local joint, Dennetts Wharf, in nearby Castine, and managed to lure one of his former Olmsted chefs up to plate decidedly more upscale fare than whats being slung at Harbor Cafe. Marlinespike Chandlery is the perfect stop for historically curious travelers who want to learn a bit about maritime culture while admiring an uncommon art form. One time I saw a cow drinking a Michelob Light on the side of the road!. A fan favorite on our trip was Crockett Cove Woods Preserve. He studied art at the School of the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, then had his own gallery in Portland, Maine, eventually settling on Deer Isle in the early 1980s. I now mentioned to the docents that the only Deer Islander named in the book was Eleanor Brace, whod owned the guesthouse where Otis had stayed and where Steinbeck had parked his camper. This is a year-round service but in the summer months there a second landing spot on Isle Au Haut giving you more options to get to this area of the park. Head down the road to Naskeag Point Boat Launch if youre looking for a quiet picnic spot on the water or just want to watch the tide. Between the hiking, the coastline and the views this should be on every nature lovers must-see list. The only downside to visiting during late spring or early fall is that some businesses and events only run during the peak summer travel season. Try an Airbnb. For more, check here and scroll down our list of regional businesses below. Gilchrist is 93, and Fay called her to see whether I could come over and have a look. Whether youre traveling in New York City or a small town in Maine, its important to be a polite guest. 1 North to Bucksport and then follow Rte. The two lane bridge crosses the waterway that separates the Island from the mainland. Visiting in the summer means more options on how to spend your time on the island. To find his footprint, at last. You got a lot of clans families that go way back. If youve ever experienced a Maine winter, the thought that a farm could keep growing things year round here is pretty surprising. The hostel does close down for the winter months but offers a unique staying experience when it is open. I could list out the official definitions for you, and I realize you can just head to Google to figure it out. This doesnt make list of 5 things to do in the next section because it is an annual event, but if you time your visit right, I wouldnt miss it. Moxie was declared the official soft drink of Maine back in 2005. This is one of the best that Ive ever seen. Snapshot: Deer Isle | Travel| Smithsonian Magazine It seemed right and even comforting to have him glowering down at me as I worked, challenging me to live up to the ideals hed once modeled: simplicity, directness, an abiding love for humanity in all its imperfections. Sustainable travel isnt just about caring for the environmentit also includes supporting the local economy and engaging with culture. No dogs are allowed on this trail in order to protect the fragile ecosystem. Deer Isle is located in the traditional territory of the Penobscot Nation, which is one of four Indigenous groups in what is now known as Maine. Address: Water: There is a drinking water pump on Western Head Road about 1/4 mile from the campground. In Maine, the ocean doesn't get warm enough for recreational swimming to be common, even in the summer. , Stonington. With that in mind, here are some ways you can be a respectful traveler and make sure Deer Isle remains a great place to visit and live. On the day I walked in, a half-dozen women, all volunteer docents, were working on various projects. Among them was Travels With Charley in Search of America, published in 1962 a work of autofiction about the writers cross-country road trip in a camper, accompanied by his dog. It was the same kind of feeling I get when I think about things like the Donner Party tragedy, the lost colony of Roanoke or the disappeared artist Connie Converse none of which are represented here, per se, but whose stories seem part of the same fabric Beerits has used to stitch together his world. You have to feel it.. (Brooklin, home to the family of literary royalty that included Katharine and E.B. 2023 Swan's Island Summer Schedule (PDF, Effective 05-01-23) She remembered voicing an opinion to him about something hed written which she now regrets but her eyes still sparkled with girlish wonder at the memory of meeting the great writer. Whether youre a hiker that loves natural escapes; a solo traveler looking for peace and solitude, or a couple looking for a romantic getaway, theres something here for everyone. Travels with Charley in Search of America, How to Travel Sustainably on Deer Isle and the Blue Hill Peninsula, Deer Isle-Stonington Welcome and Information Center, Penobscot Cultural and Historic Preservation Department, 5 primitive lean-to campsites at Duck Harbor, architect might start a side business as a chocolate maker, wedding dresses in the same store as fishing tackle, mission to secure a sustainable future for fisheries and fishing communities, Check out the preserves around the island here. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Some rooms have their own private balcony, but even the ones with a street view, like the one I stayed in, have access to a shared balcony via the hallway. On the path of discovering some of the best kept secrets in the country I stumbled on to Deer Isle in downeast Maine. The coastal villages around the Blue Hill Peninsula range from tiny to bustling, and exploring them can easily take up a whole day. But it stays with you afterwards..